Tehran during Ramadan: ‘nobody is really in the spirit’
http://www.theguardian.com/world/series/tehran-bureau – 15th August 2013
Iran has been referred to as a post-Islamist society – one in which conservative religious discourse and practices are losing their hold after decades of state promulgation. Iranians’ perspectives on the holy month of Ramadan, observed in Iran this year from 10 July to 8 August, appear to underline that view.
During Ramadan, in addition to taking special care to avoid certain sins mentioned in the Qur’an, Muslims must abstain from food or drink of any kind during daylight hours, a long stretch in the middle of the summer. The first call to prayer arrives shortly after 4am and the final call just after 8pm. The rules must be abided by throughout, and the summer heat – this year regularly nearing 40C – doesn’t make the job any easier.
Tehran’s Vanak Square bustles with hyperkinetic foot traffic at six in the evening. Maliheh, a 56-year-old employee at an car company who has come to pick up prescription medicine, shares her thoughts on Ramadan. “You know, I just love the atmosphere,” she says.
Asked what she loves most about it, she sneers. “Seriously? Who could find anything to like about this? Seventeen hours of fasting in 40-degree weather? It’s a living hell! We all sneak bites here and there at work, save for a few people who are scared about not getting promotions and whatnot,” she says with a laugh.











